France 2024: Champagne and Burgundy

We're taking a look back at our 2024 visit to France, encompassing Champagne, Burgundy and Paris (we'll cover Paris in a separate post a bit later).

Day 1: The village of Sacy, and the charming Chateau de Sacy, was our home-base for our time in Champagne.

Dinner at the chateau featured a selection of local food and wines, curated by the chef and sommelier, making for a wonderful start to our first visit to Champagne. Our jet-lag required an early night, but not before the sun set and the still-full vineyards were bathed in the final light of the day before harvest.

Day 2:

With a restful night of much needed sleep behind us, we awoke to the sight of harvest beginning in the vineyards surrounding the chateau.

The first day of harvest 2024 in Champagne.

Following breakfast at the chateau our adventures in Champagne continued with a short drive into Reims, and the grand champagne house of Mumm for a tasting and cellar tour. This is an exception experience, especially when selecting the Grand Cru Experience, which includes a 1.5hr tour and tasting.

A late lunch back at Chateau de Sacy was followed by very special private tour and tasting in Coulommes-la-Montagne at Lallement-Massonnot. Our tour included a walk in the vineyard while harvest was underway, and after a thorough tasting of the champagnes we were invited to visit the co-operative nearby. An amazing experience, only made better by the personal touch we received.

Our day ended with dinner back in Reims, enjoying the sights and sounds of the cathedral square as we enjoyed dinner outside at Restaurant Gabrielle.

Day 3: Our last day in Champagne had us enjoying another breakfast at the chateau, and an easier day with a walk through Sacy (which doesn't take long!), and then off to Reims for an afternoon of tasting, touring and dinner.

Our tasting was at Champagne Tattinger. This guided tour and tasting takes an extensive walk through the massive and historic caves. A curated tasting following the tour allowed us to compare vintages and styles of Tattinger champagnes.

A visit back to the center of Reims, and the massive and imposing cathédrale de Reims. With restoration underway a portion of the cathedral was hidden under scaffolding both inside and out, but still an impressive and inspiring tour through the history of France.

Our final dinner in Champagne had us exploring a taste of Morocco at Le Riad. A bright, colorful and warm space with cuisine to match. After dinner we took a walk around the area as daylight faded, and a quick drive back to Sacy for our final night at the chateau.

Day 4: We bid adieu to Sacy and the Champagne region and set off for Beaune. Our stay in Beaune was at Le Clos Sainte Marguerite (formerly Chez Les Fatien), where we were warmly welcomed by Estelle and shown to the "Art Deco" duplex suite. Having stayed at LCSM in 2023 - where we had the honor of being both the last guests of Chez les Fatien and the first guests of LCSM - we were eager to try another guest room.

They warned us about needing a small car, but we didn't listen.

Driving and parking in the ancient towns in France can be a challenge, but with the option of secured parking, having a car in Beaune is not as much of a challenge as feared. Spaces are bit tight however for anything bigger than a VW Golf, but our

Audi A4 Avant managed to squeeze into the space with a few cm to spare.

Dinner on our first night in Beaune was at Soul Kitchen. One thing you quickly learn about dinner in Beaune - really anywhere in France - is that you need reservations! In Beaune you often need reservations many months in advance depending on the season, and with Soul Kitchen you absolutely need to reserve months in advance if you want to enjoy this special culinary experience. Mathieu, the owner and chef, welcomes you into his petit corner restaurant for one service per night. Typically offering 2 menus - traditional Burgundian and a seasonal offering - the limited menu will not disappoint.

Beaune Saturday Market

Day 5: Saturday means it's time for the Marché de Beaune. After a light breakfast at LCSM, with fresh fruits, breads, eggs and pastries provided by Arnot we set off to the market. Time to get some cheese, bread and other local delicacies to enjoy for lunch before heading out for our first tasting in Bourgogne.

Domaine Ch. Gros & Fils was our first vineyard visit in Bourgogne, and a new winemaker introduction for us. Navigating our way around tractors hauling freshly picked grapes from the morning harvest we found our way to the tasting room in Premeaux-Prissey. Starting with a tour of the cellar and looking over the shoulders while the harvesting crew sorted grapes picked earlier that morning.

What a treat to have a taste of Grand Cru pinot noir grapes from what was a very small harvest. We then retreated back into the tasting room for a personal tasting and walk into the private cellar.

Back to Beaune for some rest before dinner at Caves Madeleine, featuring locally sourced ingredients and an warm and welcoming dining experience. Make your reservation well in advance to secure one of the 2 cozy window tables and enjoy watching Beaune slowly pass by as you dine.

Day 6: The church and clock tower bells of Beaune were ringing out on this morning, signaling Sunday services and a good time for a walk to take in the sights and sounds. Stopping by the Collégiale Notre-Dame de Beaune we enjoyed part of the service and the music from the great organ.

After walking through Beaune, we ducked into Marché aux Vins, across from the Hospices des Beaune, as it started to rain. Marché aux Vins is a bit of mix of a retail wine shop, educational and historical spot to enjoy a nice variety of Burgundy wines. A self-guided tour is available with tastings in the caves (not anything like the big caves or cellars in Beaune by any stretch), but best to skip this and head directly to business with the wine specialists on the main floor. We ended up having our largest single tasting experience of the trip, with 15 wines - most Premier or Grand Cru - brought out for us as we explored the wonderful variety in Burgundian wines.

Our dinner on this night was just a short few steps from LCSM at the small and delightful La Ciboulette. Located at the Porte St Nicolas, where the walled city begins, the staff welcomes you as you settle in for a traditional Burgundian dining experience. By this we mean rich foods, a relaxed pace and excellent service.

Safe in the Vin Garde for our journey home.

Day 7: Our final full day in Beaune. Breakfast at LCSM, and after a bit of down-time we headed out to one of our favorite wine shops in Vosne-Romanée, La maison des vins. A small wine shop, but stocked with a selection difficult to source in the United States. No shipping available here, so you have to come prepared to buy and take the wine with you. Here is where the Vin Garde comes in handy!

Lunch was a casual affair in the center of Beaune, dining outside and enjoying the fall sunshine before heading out for our final tasting in Burgundy.

Our final tasting of our time in Burgundy was at Caveau Moillard in Meursault. We once again chose the Grand Cru experience, and ended up a generous selection of wines. The tasting room offers a view towards the vineyards surrounding Meursault - truly a wonderful experience exploring Moillard's offerings and some great conversation with our host.

Premier and Grand Cru tasting at Moillard.

Our final dinner in Beaune was simple, no reservation (yes, we broke our own rule), again sitting on the main square outside and dining at one of the many restaurants that offer outdoor seating. And our final morning at LCSM made for one last Pain au chocolate before loading up the rental Audi and making our way back to Paris.

The final pain au chocolat at Le Clos Sainte Marguerite